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MAD FOR MOD

The question of what really is Mod? is always cropping up on fashion chat boards. There are some vintage sellers (like me!) who remember and wore the original Mod look in the 1960s. Here’s my take on Mod, based on my experiences as a teenager in the States in the mid to late 1960s and on my research of fashion history. Mod started as a movement in Britain in the late 1950s, but I’m referring to the mainstream fashion style that we associate with the mid to late 1960s.

Adolfo Mod Style Helmet

Gerald McCann Dress

MOD WAS BOLD & GRAPHIC

Just like the art movements of the period, pop and op, fashion of the mid 1960s was bold and graphic. Color was used against black and white, and colors were often primary and bright. Geometric shapes such as circles were popular in fabric design.

Dresses were worn with contrasting (or the ever-present black and white) opaque tights and brightly colored shoes. Dresses and skirts were also worn with black, white or even colored boots, which often reached the knee. A jumper or sleeveless dress might have been worn with a contrasting turtleneck beneath.

MOD WAS SHORT & STREAMLINED

The mini skirt was THE Mod skirt. By 1965, girls were wearing their skirts and dresses several inches above the knee, and hemlines went even higher as time went on. Skirt waists were dropped to several inches below the natural waist, and dresses often had no waist, had dropped waists or had empire styling. Wide pleats were popular on dresses and skirts, but they always started at the hip, not the waist.

Dresses and skirts were not perfectly straight, but were A line in shape. Skirts flared out slightly from the hips to the hem.

For the first time, women started wearing pants for other than the most casual of occasions. Pants were shaped like skirts at the waist, but the legs would have been either straight or slightly flared.

1960s Mary Quant Ginger Group Dress

Mid 1960s Mary Quant Dress

MOD WAS NEW & INVENTIVE

Not only were the hemlines and the shapes new, but Mod also embraced the use of new materials. Shiny was IN, and shiny vinyl was used to decorate dresses and coats. Entire dresses, coats and jackets were made from plastics or other unusual materials such as paper and metallics. Shoes, boots, handbags and shoulder bags were made from shiny “wet look” vinyl and from metallic lame’ fabric.

Plastics were used as decorations on garments and in accessories like chain link belts. Jewelry was made from plastic, and in keeping with the general trends, was bold and colorful.

Metal chains were also used to accent clothing and accessories. Belts and half belts were made from metal, as were the shoulder straps on bags.

MOD WAS YOUNG

Probably most importantly, Mod was young. Many of the clothes of the time were designed by the young for the young. And like the young, the clothes had energy. Maybe that's why the look keeps returning, and continues to look so fresh and MODern.


Who are the best of the Mod designers? I think the first one who comes to mind is Mary Quant of London. She is credited by many as being the inventor of the mini-skirt, and she certainly was an early designer of this look that began on the streets of London.  In Paris, Andre' Courreges was doing his futuristic version of Mod, as was Pierre Cardin. Mod was a little slower hitting the States, but by September 1965 the Mod boutique Paraphernalia had opened in NYC. It utilized an entire crew of young, hip designers, including Betsey Johnson, Deanna Littell and Joel Schumacher.

Buxbaum, Gerda, ed, Icons of Fashion: The 20th Century.  Munich: Prestel, 1999.

Laver, James,  Costume & Fashion.  London: Thames and Hudson, 1982, 1995.

 Lobenthal, Joel,  Radical Rags.New York: Abbeville Press, 1990.

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